BB Cream with SPF ~33, PFA (PPD) ~18 Sun Protection Formula JZ6-25

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Homosalate
7.00

HallBrite BHB (HallStar) (Butyloctyl salicylate)
5.00

Caprylic/capric triglyceride
3.00

SolaStay S1 (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene)
3.00

Vitamin E acetate (DSM) (Tocopheryl acetate)
0.20

Phase B

AS-5131 Alkyl Silane Treated Yellow Iron Oxide (Color Techniques) (Iron oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane)
1.30

AS-5126 Alkyl Silane Treated Red Iron Oxide (Color Techniques) (Iron oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane)
0.40

AS-5146 Alkyl Silane Treated Black Iron Oxide (Color Techniques) (Iron oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane)
0.15

Phase C

AS-5812 Alkyl Silane Treated Titanium Dioxide (Color Techniques) (Titanium dioxide, triethoxycaprylylsilane)
5.00

Phase D

Neo Heliopan 357 (Symrise) (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane [avobenzone])
3.00

Ganex V-220 (Ashland) (VP/Eicosene copolymer)
1.00

HallStar GMS Pure (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate)
1.40

HallStar PEG 4400 MS (HallStar) (PEG-100 stearate)
1.30

Emulsiphos (Symrise) (Potassium cetyl phosphate, hydrogenated palm glycerides)
1.00

Phase E

Sunspheres Powder (Dow Chemical) (Styrene/acrylates copolymer)
2.00

Phase F

Water (Aqua) (deionized)
56.50

Phase G

Versene NA (Dow Chemical) (Disodium EDTA)
0.05

Phase H

Rhodicare XC (Solvay Novecare) (Xanthan gum)
0.20

Phase I

Mikrokill COS (Lonza/Arch) (Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, ghlorphenesin)
1.00

Superol K, Glycerine 99.7% USP/FCC Kosher (P&G Chemicals) (Glycerin)
3.00

Phase J

Simulgel 600 (Seppic) (Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80)
2.00

Phase K

Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Dow Corning) (Cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane)
2.00

Eurol BT (HallStar Italia) (Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, water)
0.50

Procedure

To a secondary vessel add A and start mixing. Add B. When uniform, add C and heat to 85°C. Add D in order. When homogeneous, add E and mix until well dispersed. To the main vessel, add F. Dissolve G in F with continued mixing. Add H and stir until fully incorporated. Start heating to 80°C. When both phases are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, slowly add the oil phase (A–E) to the water phase (F–H) with prop mixing. Homogenize for 3 minutes, then return center mixing and continue cooling. When batch is less than 50°C, add premix of I and continue mixing. Add J and continue mixing until fully incorporated. Add K in order, mixing until fully incorporated. When completely smooth, perform final quality assurance checks.